These are pictures of Pat Miller's version and Bill Pitzer's version

 

Here is the link to Pat Miller's YouTube video about his version.

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Bill Pitzer's Version

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Things that I would/will do different:  I used a 3"x16" alum tube.  I turned 2 plugs for each end.  The headstock plug is threaded 1"x8.  The other end is drilled out so that the tailstock will keep it aligned. 

I used Velcro on the drum and then took a HF 6x48 120 grit and with spray adhesive used felt so that it would stick to the Velcro.  The felt was too thick so the fit is a bit loose.  After watching a number of YouTube videos, I'm not sure if just securing it to the drum without the Velcro wouldn't be better.  Some just use a screw ar each end to hold it in place.  I thin that I will try that next time.  Or find thinner felt.

To figure out the angle to cut on the start of the sand paper.  You take the diameter x Pi (3.146)  Measure from the end of the sandpaper, diagonally to the opposite edge then use a straight edge from one corner to that line on the opposite side.   Also, when you are going to start of the left side of the drum, lay the sand paper with the grit up and draw from the right corner to the left side where you have your measurement. You might use a paper template first.

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I just used scraps, these were flooring samples. These are just cabinet hinges. The bottom is 2 layers 16"x14" The top part of the table is 16"x16".

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The adjusting mech is a 1/2" all thread.  Since there needs to be a bit of movement as the table raises, I made the mech rotate.

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The turning mech is  3" oak with a nut forced into the oak, and some CA glue to keep it secure.

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This is a wingnut (couldn't find a 1/2 T-nut) imbedded into the 1x2

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There is a steel washer CA glued in the recess for the bolt to ride on.

In the end I found that with thew Velcro and felt made the drum too spongy.  I removed the Velcro and layed the sand paper directly on the drum, using a countersunk screw at both ends.  You could use spray adhesive to hold the sandpaper tight.